Archive for February 2012


Dye House Visit

February 29th, 2012 — 6:17pm

Yesterday I spent 9 hours on a trip to visit a textile dye house. About 8 hours of that we spent driving the 40 miles there and back. Traffic is beyond insane here in this overcrowded city. In conversing with my suppliers and so much to see as we drove, the time flew by.

The dye house crew. I did my best to communicate my gratitude to these workers for their contribution to my business in America.

Me with the owner of the dye house. He had just been telling me about how he likes Covey's Seven Habits book. Amazing what we have in common with people seemingly far removed.

As I adjust to the newness of this place, the sights and sounds are fading into the background and the people are capturing my attention.

The Life of Ashok

February 28th, 2012 — 7:24pm

Ashok (pronounced a-shook) goes to bed at midnight every day. He gets up at 4am and takes a one-hour train ride during which he sleeps a little more. Then he takes a one-hour bus ride to the five-star hotel in Kolkata where he works in housekeeping. He works 9 hours a day, 6 days a week. On the day I talked with him we was working a double shift to help cover on the strike day, for no extra pay. “It’s no problem.” he says “They are very short-handed today.”

The American idea of hotel housekeeping is completely inadequate to describe what Ashok does. He spends the entire day on the 8th floor. Anytime you step off the elevator he is there to greet you with a formal “Good afternoon, Sir.” Anytime you step out of your room he is there to say hello and see if you need anything. He cleans each room twice per day. He noticed I was drinking only bottled water and voila 6 bottles of water are in my room in place of the usual two. As we are talking he steps away to open and reclose a door down the hall. The guest had accidentally left it slightly ajar and thus unlocked. Somehow while talking to me Ashook noted that the lock did not click, from half a floor away. If you stay in your room all day and only step out for 5 minutes to walk downstairs, it will be clean when you return.

He knows the country each guest is visiting from without asking. By listening to guests speak he has learned enough of several languages to converse. His English is broken but completely adequate for he and I to understand each other.

Ashok has worked on the 8th floor of this hotel for 13 years. He has tears in his eyes as he tells me how he remembers when only one room on the 8th floor was finished construction. He was there as each additional room was finished. “The 8th floor is my baby, my mother, my father.” he says. We would say it is the love of his life. He has had other job offers for 25% more than he makes now, but he will not leave. He could use more money, but he loves his 8th floor. His manager is kind to him, appreciates him, and implores him to stay.

After his shift he goes to the kitchen to train under the chef as a volunteer for two hours. He loves cooking and he wants to learn. Then he takes the two hour bus and train commute back to his home-town. He studies for his “qualification”, the equivalent of a high school diploma. The only sadness I saw in him was when he talked about how he is disappointed with himself that he does not have it yet. He is 38 years old. He picks up notes from the school, studies on his own time, and pays fees to take the final exams. High school here requires proficiency in three languages. He has no classroom time, no teacher, no tutor, no peers to help him understand. He has only his ambition, his desire to grow.

On the train station platform some people are waiting for him. Among them are two children, a boy and a girl. “Their mother and father are gone. They call me uncle. They wait for me every day. ‘Uncle is coming, uncle is coming.’ they say to each other.” (I wonder if today they are waiting 9 extra hours since he is working a double shift.) Others are waiting on the platform for Ashok too. He gives them each something. A few rupees, some bread, some candy, all things he has thoughtfully brought for them from the city at his own expense. “I am giving to God.” he says, smiling and pointing upward.

When he gets home, his elderly mother and father are already in bed, but they don’t sleep until they see that he is home safely. They have no social security, Ashok is their sole provider. Once he is home they are asleep within 5 minutes. Ashok makes himself dinner, takes a bath, and repeats this story again tomorrow.

Two days are special in his week. Thursday is his day off. He cleans the family house. He takes care of his garden. He goes to the market to shop for his family. “I have to do all the week’s marketing in only 1 or 2 hours. It is hard.” He has started a small shop near the train station selling coffee and tea. I have no idea when he finds time to work there.

The other special day is Sunday. On Sundays after work he walks to St. Paul’s Church. He sits there in silence for 1 or 2 hours. “This is my rest.” he says. The way he says the word rest is with an exhaling that comes from every fiber of his being and shows he much he cherishes that time.

Ashok is full of service, loyalty, generosity, diligence and ambition. From his income he supports himself, his mother, his father, and his education. And every day he gives something to those orphans and others.

He makes about $5 per day.

He is one of the happiest people I’ve ever met.

Strike Day

February 27th, 2012 — 8:45pm

Today has been declared a strike day by a bunch of labor unions in India. I’m told this happens 2 or 3 times a year. The hotel staff and my contacts here are telling me to stay at my hotel all day because no transportation is running and in case any demonstrations turn into mobs. So far it looks pretty peaceful out, but it’s still early here. (India is not an early-to-rise culture, which suits me very well.)

I want to go see the rural area around Kolkata today if I can find a way to get there and back. The rest of my visit will be devoted to spending time with my business contacts, so this is my last chance to explore. For those of you back home who worry about me (you know who you are), I promise I’ll be careful.

[P.S. I ended up staying in my hotel all day. Nobody would take me anywhere for fear of the unions. So the strike turned out to be more like a cold war than a mob. The city is back in business today.]

My Guided Tour of Kolkata

February 27th, 2012 — 5:22am

I spent 8 hours today with a professional tour guide seeing Kolkata. I asked to see the real city, and we did. Here are a few photos from today.

A man in the flower market. These fresh flowers are used as decorations for weddings and other events.

Only when you've driven in a city like this can you appreciate how laughable these words are. There is precisely zero obedience to the traffic laws here.

We had lunch at a Bengali restaurant run out of a rescue mission. The residents work there and benefit from the proceeds. The upper-left is a whole fish, which I ate while thinking of the horribly dirty river I saw earlier. You only live once right? So far I'm feeling fine.

This is a clay sculpture in progress. I'd name it 'Cracked Man' and keep it as is.

As my tour continued and I become more used to the normal sights of this place, I started taking more pictures of faces. This boy was walking by our car while we were stuck in traffic.

In the flower market. Everyone is staring because I'm the conspicuous white guy with the big camera. People live in their market stalls. It's a smelly and cramped place. As I was contemplating the sub-human living conditions in front of me, my guide said, 'Ok, now we will go see the slums.'

Landing in India

February 26th, 2012 — 6:46pm

I got here safe and sound late last night. After a 24-hour travel process and a midnight mad-dash taxi ride to my hotel, I’m just here. I haven’t stepped into the real life of the city yet. So far being me here feels a lot like being me anywhere. I wonder if that will change today.

Downtown Kolkata in the Morning

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